Nigerian Dwarf goats are small, hardy, and very productive dairy animals. They are easy to care for, have gentle dispositions, and produce milk with very high butterfat content.
These little goats are 17 to 22.5 inches tall at the withers, come from the varied climates of West Africa, and have been refined in North America over the last few decades.
They are very small in physical size, very easy to handle, and have the unique ability to cycle and breed at any time of the year, which makes them very well suited to beginners, small family farms, and hobby herds.
This is the all-in-one guide to this breed’s management. It covers breed traits and genetics in great detail, the logistics of planning a starter herd (including sex ratios, sourcing, and strict quarantine protocols), and advanced housing and fencing designs.
It is a complete analysis of goat nutrition, including forage needs, concentrates, rumen health, and essential mineral balancing. This guide also includes detailed information on health maintenance (vaccinations, targeted deworming, hoof care, and biosecurity), breeding mechanics, kidding and newborn care, recordkeeping, economics, and legal zoning considerations.
This manual is filled with information from proven veterinary standards and modern agricultural extension research to assist both novice and experienced breeders in developing a thriving, profitable, and healthy Nigerian Dwarf herd.
Breed Overview and History
Nigerian Dwarfs are a true miniature dairy goat, developed to be a smaller version of larger Swiss dairy breeds.
Mature does should be 17 to 19 inches tall, and bucks should be 19 to 20 inches tall (maximum heights usually allowed are 22.5 inches for does and 23.5 inches for bucks, depending on the registry).
Origins and Development:
They were initially imported from West Africa to North America during the mid-1900s on ships as a food source for large captive cats to be sent to zoos. But then they were found to have a unique milking capacity despite their diminutive size.
They are colorful, elegant, and refined in their bone structure and are quite different from the pygmy goat, which is bred for meat and is heavier and “cobby” in build. An adult Nigerian weighs only 60 to 75 pounds yet is capable of producing an amazing 1 to 3 quarts of milk per day.
Their milk is prized for its high butterfat content, which routinely measures 6-10% (well above the 3-4% found in standard breeds like Alpines or Saanens), making it the ultimate milk for artisanal cheese, butter, and soap making.
Temperament and Usage:
The Nigerian Dwarf has a very friendly, calm temperament. They bond well with human handlers, making them excellent projects for kids, 4-H members, and agritourism operations.
They are also highly sought after as companion animals, for showing, and for brush clearing. Their primary use, though, is for small-scale dairy production.
Key Biological Traits:
Nigerian Dwarfs grow up surprisingly quickly. Males can start cycling as early as 2 to 4 months of age, and females can be fertile as early as 7 weeks.
However, despite this early fertility, a doe should never be bred until she is fully physically mature, usually at 7 to 8 months of age and weighing at least 40 pounds, as such actions can lead to catastrophic kidding complications.
Nigerian Dwarfs are polyestrous and can breed all year long, unlike seasonal breeders (such as Nubians or Toggenburgs that only breed in the fall). A farm can stagger breedings to maintain a continuous year-round milk supply.
Registration and Status:
It should be noted that the Nigerian Dwarf is the only miniature dairy breed recognized by the American Dairy Goat Association (ADGA), besides the standard breeds.
They can also be registered with either the American Goat Society (AGS) or the Nigerian Dwarf Dairy Goat Association (NDDGA).
Today, they are a common breed worldwide, and, in 2013, they graduated from the Livestock Conservancy’s conservation list due to their explosive popularity and strong, healthy global population.
Starter Flock Planning
Starting a dairy goat herd requires strategic planning, foresight, and knowledge of caprine psychology. Goats are very social herd animals.
A single goat will get very stressed, very vocal, and prone to illness or escape. It should always start with at least two compatible goats for a beginner herd.
Structuring the Herd:
Two to three does are the perfect beginning for a dedicated milk project. This gives you company and a backup supply of milk in case one doe goes dry or needs medical intervention.
Beginners should be careful when it comes to bucks. Bucks need their own, separate, reinforced housing. Bucks have a very strong musky odor during rut (which can taint the flavor of the milk if housed too close to the does).
Bucks can be aggressive. A typical ratio is 1 buck to 10 to 20 does. It is rarely economically logical to keep a buck unless you have a micro-herd of 2 to 4 does.
Instead, beginners are advised to use artificial insemination (AI) or set up “driveway breedings” (stud service) with local, reputable breeders.
Sourcing and Selection:
When buying your foundation stock, select healthy, alert animals with bright eyes, slick coats, and good body condition. Purchase only from reputable breeders who participate in milk testing or conformation shows or are affiliated with the ADGA or AGS.
When evaluating a dairy doe, you want a capacious udder with distinct and well-placed teats, a strong medial suspensory ligament, and a level top line.
Health Verifications:
If you intend to build a disease-free dairy herd, never buy goats at livestock auctions. Request to see negative test results in writing from the breeder’s herd for three major caprine diseases: CAE (Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis), CL (Caseous Lymphadenitis), and Johne’s Disease. When buying kids be sure to see the dam to judge her udder condition and overall conformation. A responsible breeder will give you a health record detailing the exact dates of vaccinations, deworming and coccidiosis prevention treatments.
Quarantine Protocols:
Bringing a new goat into an existing herd without quarantine is a huge biosecurity risk. Strict quarantine of not less than 30 days is required for new arrivals. This quarantine pen needs to be set far enough away from the main herd they can’t touch noses through the fence. Within this 30-day period, keep a close eye on the new goat’s appetite, perform a fecal egg count to detect internal parasites, trim their hooves, and observe for any symptoms of contagious abscesses (CL) or respiratory infections caused by transport stress. Use separate boots, feeding buckets and shovels, etc., for the quarantine area.
Housing, Fencing, and Environmental Management
Nigerian Dwarfs are rugged and adaptable to both frigid winters and blazing summers, provided their basic environmental needs are met: they must stay dry, and they must be protected from direct wind drafts.
Housing Requirements:
For pasture setups, a simple three-sided run-in shed usually suffices, as long as the open side faces away from the prevailing storm winds. For open-sided housing, provide at least 15 sq. ft. of bedded floor space per adult goat. For fully enclosed barns, 20 to 25 sq ft per goat is recommended. Overcrowding increases parasite loads and respiratory illness.
The most important aspect of goat housing is ventilation. Goats excrete large volumes of moisture and ammonia through respiration and urine. A sealed barn will trap the ammonia and result in severe pneumonia. Make sure there is sufficient air circulation through roof ridge vents or open eaves, but keep the floor-level sleeping areas completely free of cold drafts.
Bedding:
Pine shavings or clean straw are the normal choices. Many breeders in colder climates use the “Deep Litter Method”. That is, leave the manure and bedding in place and add fresh straw on top throughout the winter. As the bottom layers compost, they produce radiant heat that keeps the goats warm. This has to be cleaned out completely in the spring.
Fencing Constraints:
Goats are notoriously clever escape artists and nimble climbers. A 4 foot fence might be adequate for holding heavy standard breeds, but agile Nigerian Dwarfs usually need 4.5 to 5 foot fences. Woven-wire “no-climb” horse fencing (with 2×4 inch holes) is great because goats can’t get their heads caught in it. Avoid cattle panels with 4×4 inch holes. Horned goats or curious kids will stick their heads through and get fatally stuck.
Run a strand of electric wire 12 inches off the ground and another strand at the very top to keep them from rubbing on or climbing the fence. Goats have thick coats to keep them from being shocked by minor jolts; Your fence charger needs to be rated for high-tensile livestock and produce at least 4,000 to 5,000 volts.
Predator Protection:
Nigerian Dwarfs are very susceptible to coyotes, bobcats, stray domestic dogs and even large birds of prey (which can take newborn kids) because of their small size. Goats are required to be penned in a securely enclosed and predator-proof shelter overnight.
The gold standard for daytime security of livestock in pasture situations is to use a Livestock Guardian Dog (LGD) such as a Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherd or Maremma. Donkeys and llamas can also serve as guardians , but are usually less effective against pack predators than a bonded LGD .
Nutrition and Feeding Mechanics
The goat is a ruminant, meaning its digestive system relies on a complex, multi-chambered stomach (the rumen, reticulum, omasum, and abomasum) filled with microscopic bacteria to ferment and break down plant matter. When you feed a goat, you are actually feeding the bacteria in their rumen. Rapid changes in diet will kill these bacteria off, leading to deadly bloat or enterotoxemia.
Forage First:
Goat’s diet should be strictly forage. Unlike grazers (grass eaters) they are natural browsers (leaves, brush & weeds). If pasture or woodland is not available, high quality hay must be fed free choice, 24/7. Acceptable hays are orchardgrass, timothy, brome or bermuda.
A vital correction for goat nutrition: adult dairy goats need to consume a minimum of 3 to 5% of their body weight in dry matter each day. For example, a 100-pound lactating Nigerian doe would eat 3 to 5 pounds of high-quality hay each day. Don’t be stingy on forage. It’s the motor of their body heat and milk-making.
Concentrates (Grain):
Grain should be considered merely as an adjunct to heavy production. Dry does (not pregnant or milking) and wethers (castrated males) should get absolutely no grain. They’ll do fine and stay in perfect body condition on forage alone.
Lactating does , though , need grain to support the massive caloric drain of milk production . Feed a balanced 14-16% protein dairy goat pellet on the milk stand. A general rule is 0.5 to 1 lb. of grain per quart of milk produced.
The Wether and Urinary Calculi:
CAUTION: Wethers are very susceptible to Urinary Calculi (stones that plug the urethra and cause a painful, fatal rupture of the bladder). This is caused by an incorrect Calcium to Phosphorus ratio, often because of feeding grain (which is high in phosphorus). Wethers should be fed only grass hay and pasture. Maintain a strict dietary ratio of Calcium to Phosphorus at 2:1.
Minerals and Supplements:
Goats have very high mineral requirements, much higher than those of sheep or cattle. You must provide a free choice, loose mineral for goats 24/7. Do not use blocks of “sheep/goat”.
Sheep are extremely sensitive to copper but goats require huge amounts of copper for coat health, immune function and parasite resistance. Copper deficiency causes a “fish-tail” (balding tip of tail) and lightening of coat colors.
Selenium is also required in supplementation for goats in many areas of the United States. Does that are deficient will produce kids with “White Muscle Disease” (an inability to stand or nurse) if pregnant. If you’re in an area deficient in selenium, ask your local vet.
You may need to give Bo-Se (injectable selenium/vitamin E) or oral selenium gels. Baking soda should also be offered as a free choice, goats will self medicate with baking soda to buffer their rumen pH if they have an upset stomach.
Health and Preventive Care
It is much cheaper and more effective to manage herd health proactively than to treat sick animals. It is important to establish a relationship with a large-animal or livestock veterinarian before an emergency arises.
Vaccinations:
Goats MUST be vaccinated with CD&T. Protects against Clostridium perfringens types C and D (causes enterotoxemia/bloat disease) and Clostridium tetani (Tetanus).
- Pregnant Does: Need CD&T booster 3 to 4 weeks prior to kidding. This enables the doe to transfer valuable antibodies into her colostrum to safeguard her newborn kids.
- Kids: If the dam was vaccinated, give kids their first CD&T shot at 6 to 8 weeks of age, then booster at 3 to 4 weeks. If the dam was not vaccinated, kids need to start their series much earlier, at 3 weeks of age.
- Adults: All adult bucks, wethers and does need a yearly booster. If you live in an area of high vector populations (raccoons, skunks, bats) or if your goats have contact with the public rabies vaccines are also strongly recommended.
Parasite Management:
Internal parasites, especially the Barber Pole Worm (Haemonchus contortus) are the number one killer of goats worldwide. This worm lives in the abomasum and is a blood sucker and causes severe anaemia.
Avoid routine calendar based blanket deworming (e.g. deworming the whole herd every month). This practice has led to the creation of devastating “super-worms” that are immune to all chemical dewormers. Or try the FAMACHA system. This is done by pulling down the lower eyelid of the goat to see the color of the mucous membrane.
Healthy goats have a deep red color while a pale pink or stark white color indicates severe anemia and should be treated immediately with chemical dewormers (Cydectin, Prohibit, or Valbazen) and iron supplementation.
Hoof Care:
Like human fingernails, goat hooves grow continuously. The hoof wall will fold under the sole if left untrimmed, trapping manure and moisture and causing debilitating hoof rot. Trim the hooves every 6 to 8 weeks with special hoof shears. The goal is to bring the outer hoof wall to a perfect flush with the soft inner sole so the goat is standing flat on the coronary band.
Major Diseases to Test For:
- CAE (Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis): Retrovirus similar to the HIV virus in humans. It causes hard udders, pneumonia in children and crippling joint arthritis in adults. It is untreatable and is spread mainly by infected colostrum.
- CL ( Caseous Lymphadenitis ): A highly contagious bacterial infection that results in pus-filled abscesses internally and externally. If an abscess ruptures in your barn, the bacteria can live in the soil for years.
- Johne’s Disease: A fatal gastrointestinal disease that causes extreme wasting and chronic diarrhea. A responsible herd manager takes blood annually and sends it to a lab (like WADDL) to keep the herd 100% negative for these diseases.
Breeding, Kidding, and Neonatal Care
Breeding dairy goats is an intense, rewarding process that requires close observation and preparedness.
The Estrous Cycle:
Nigerian does do cycle every 18 to 21 days. Signs of a “standing heat” include persistent vocalization (bleating), vigorous tail wagging (“flagging”), a swollen vulva with clear mucous discharge and mounting other does. If you have a buck, you can pen him in with her for a day.
Gestation and Flushing:
The gestation period of goats is about 145 to 155 days, or approximately 5 months. About 30 days before breeding the doe you can start “flushing” her by slightly increasing her caloric intake (either fresh pasture or a handful of grain); this encourages her body to release more than one egg and improves the odds of twins or triplets. Fetuses grow exponentially the last 6 weeks of pregnancy. With the babies taking up space in the abdomen the doe’s rumen capacity shrinks and she needs high-calorie, nutrient-dense alfalfa and moderate grain to avoid Pregnancy Toxemia (ketosis).
Kidding Preparation:
Two weeks before the due date, deeply bed a 5×5 foot kidding jug (pen) that is free of drafts and spotlessly clean. Have your kidding kit ready: sterile surgical lube, iodine (7% for dipping navels), clean towels, dental floss (for tying off bleeding cords), a bulb syringe for clearing airways, frozen emergency colostrum.
The Labor Process:
- Stage 1: Restlessness, pawing at the bedding, isolating herself, and a long string of amber mucus. It can last from 2 to 12 hours.
- Stage 2: The hard push starts. The water bag will break and come out. Normally in a presentation you will see the two front hooves acting as a “diving board” on top of which the nose of the kid is resting. Once the hard pushing starts, a baby should be delivered within 30 to 45 minutes. If a doe is pushing hard for 30 minutes with no progress she is having dystocia (malpresentation) and needs immediate manual assistance. Make sure you wash your hands really well, lube up the surgical area well and gently go into the birth canal to reposition the kid.
- Stage 3: Delivery of the placenta This usually happens within 1 to 4 hours after the last kid is born. Do not pull on a retained placenta, it will cause fatal hemorrhaging.
Neonatal Care:
Immediately after a child is born, wipe his nose and mouth with a towel to remove the amniotic sac. If the child is raspy, suction the airway with a bulb syringe. Soak the whole cord with 7% iodine up to the navel to prevent “Joint Ill” (a fatal bacterial infection that travels up the cord).
Colostrum is life.
A baby is born without an immune system. They need to drink 10% of their body weight in thick antibody-rich first milk (colostrum) in the first 6 to 12 hours of life. The gut lining closes after 24 hours, so antibodies can no longer be absorbed. If a kid is too weak to nurse, you must milk the doe and then tube or bottle-feed the kid immediately.
Disbudding and Castration Timelines:
Because goats use their horns to fight, horned dairy goats pose a huge safety risk to human handlers, other goats, and livestock dogs. They can also get caught in the fences and strangle. Dairy goats are routinely disbudded (the horn buds are cauterized with a special hot iron).
- Disbudding Schedule: Nigerian Dwarf horns develop very quickly. Kids need to be disbudded between 3 and 7 days old. 2 weeks is far to long to wait and you will end up with wide horn bases and “scurs” (deformed horn regrowth).
- When to Castrate: Use an elastrator band to castrate wethers. Important to success is not castrating before 8 to 12 weeks of age. The urethra will not reach its mature diameter if the castration is done early, and the risk of fatal urinary blockages increases exponentially as the cat ages.
Dairy Management and Milking Procedures
If you are breeding Nigerian Dwarfs, you are in the dairy business. Cleanliness and routine are key.
The Milking Routine:
It should be milked every 12 hours in order to maintain high production. You will need a sturdy wooden or metal milk stand with a headgate to hold the doe, and a small feed trough to keep her occupied.
- Preparation Wash your hands well. Brush the doe’s sides to remove loose hair and dander.
- Wash udder and teats with warm, sanitizing udder wash or a commercial teat wipe. Dry thoroughly with a clean paper towel.
- Milk the first two streams of milk from each teat into a strip cup. This will flush out bacteria that are living in the teat canal and will enable you to check the milk for the presence of clumps, blood or stringiness (the first signs of mastitis).
- Gently squeeze the doe, never pull or drag down on the teat (which will damage the internal tissue).
- When empty, dip the teats immediately in a commercial iodine teat dip or chlorhexidine solution. Teat orifice remains open for 15-30 minutes after milking. The dip forms a barrier for environmental bacteria and prevents mastitis.
Milk Handling:
Goat milk fat globules are smaller than cow milk fat globules, so goat milk is naturally homogenized. But it is very susceptible to odor absorption. The milk must be strained immediately with a disposable milk filter, poured into a sterilized glass jar and cooled quickly. Put the jar in an ice-water bath in the refrigerator — this will chill the milk within an hour and stop the growth of bacteria that give it a “goaty” or musky flavor. Many prefer raw milk but for the most safety from zoonotic diseases the milk should be pasteurized at 165°F for 15 seconds.
Drying Off:
After 10 months of milking, the doe needs a 2 month “dry period” to allow her to rebuild her bodily reserves before her next kidding. Gradually reduce her grain to nothing and cut back on the alfalfa to dry her off. Gradually reduce milking to once a day, then every other day, until her udder dries up. Watch for any signs of congestion or mastitis during this period.
Economics and Record Keeping
The value of a farm is measured by the records it keeps. Genetic progression cannot occur without accurate data, and disease management becomes a guessing game.
Data Tracking:
Choose between herd management software or a detailed physical notebook. For each goat, write down:
- Birth date, birth weight and weaning weight
- Registration numbers and pedigree trees.
- Exact dates and doses of all medications, dewormer and vaccines received.
- Breeding dates, sire used, and calculated expected kidding dates.
- Test weights for each month to monitor peak lactation and total yield.
Economic Realities and Budgeting:
Goat-keeping is seldom a highly profitable business, but with careful management the herd can pay for itself.
- Startup Costs: Expect to spend $1,500 to $3,500 to get the infrastructure up and running. Quality registered varies from $300 to $800+ each. Fencing and a basic shelter will easily run $1,000 to $2,000 depending on cost of materials.
- Your biggest expense is Recurring Expenses Yearly Feed. A miniature goat can eat up to a half ton of high quality hay in a year. For a micro-herd of 4 goats, figure $400 to $800 per year for hay, grain, minerals and basic veterinary supplies.
- Revenue Streams: Profitability is realized through value-added products. Selling raw fluid milk is heavily restricted or illegal in most states without a commercial dairy license, but rich Nigerian milk is ideal for making artisan goat milk soaps and lotions that yield high profits. Also, good quality registered CAE negative babies can bring you $300-$600 per kid and pay your hay bill for the year.
Legal and Zoning Considerations
Do your due diligence on your local municipal laws. Do not buy a single goat. Livestock regulations are hyper-local and vary wildly from county to county and even from specific suburb neighborhood to specific suburb neighborhood.
Some townships classify miniature goats as “pets” as long as they are under a certain weight limit and you can have them on half acre lots. Others have strict agricultural zoning that requires a minimum of five or ten acres to keep any livestock with hooves.
Check for specific setback laws — many municipalities require livestock fencing or manure compost piles to be placed at least 50 to 100 feet from neighboring property lines. If you ever want to sell milk, cheese or meat, you will need to contact the Department of Agriculture of your state to find out what facility inspections, pasteurization laws and commercial permits are required to sell food to the public.
Daily Routines and Advanced Troubleshooting
The Daily Routine:
Goats thrive on absolute consistency.
- Morning (7:00 AM) Open barn. Look for bright eyes, alert ears, and goats at the feed trough waiting for feed. If you see a goat standing by itself with its head down or grinding its teeth it is in pain and needs to be seen immediately. Milk stand; feed grain. Put fresh forage in hay racks. Change the water in the buckets for new, clean water.
- Mid-Day: Do a quick sight check. Make sure the fences are still standing.
- Evening (19.00): Milking in the evening. Fill hay racks for overnight forage If a bad storm or deep freeze is coming, check the weather, lock them in the safe barn.
Advanced Troubleshooting Guide
- Late pregnancy doe lethargic, stumbling or has sweet smelling breath: This is Pregnancy Toxemia (Ketosis). Her body is burning her own fat for fuel because she cannot eat enough calories to keep the kids going. Fatal medical emergency! Administer oral propylene glycol immediately & consult a vet.
- The goat is bloated on the left side and kicking at its belly: This is frothy bloat or enterotoxemia, often due to a sudden change in diet, breaking into the grain bin or eating rich spring clover. Drench with vegetable oil or commercial anti-bloat medication, keep the goat moving and phone the vet.
- A newborn kid that is limp, cold and has no suckle reflex means this kid is hypothermic. Never feed a cold child, the milk will curdle and putrefy in its stomach. Place child in warm bath (head above water) until internal rectal temperature reaches 100 F. Rub dry with a towel, blow dry to stand up the coat and then tube feed warm colostrum.
- A wether straining to urinate, calling out or kicking his belly. This is Urinary Calculi. This is an emergency. He needs urgent veterinary attention for amputation of the urethral process OR cystotomy This can be avoided by removing all grain from his diet, and making sure he has a 2:1 Calcium to Phosphorus ratio.
- A doe aggressively rejects one of her twins: Does rely heavily on scent. If a kid was taken away and cleaned by humans she might not accept that. Don’t wear tight clothes such as “tummy bands”. Instead put the doe into a small kidding jug or tie her head in the milk stand stanchion. Hold her gently in place and let the rejected kid nurse her. Often, after 2 or 3 days of forced nursing, the kid’s manure will smell “correct” to the doe, and her maternal instincts will accept it.
Conclusion
Raising Nigerian Dwarf goats is a very rewarding hobby that combines the best of both worlds of pet ownership and sustainable agricultural farming. If you take the advanced protocols above extremely seriously, with a heavy emphasis on bio-security, high-volume forage nutrition, parasite management using the FAMACHA system, and careful cleanliness during the milking process, you can develop a thriving, healthy, and very productive micro-dairy. Continue to partner with experienced mentors, breed associations, and trusted livestock veterinarians to navigate the nuances of caprine husbandry.
